Skin care product development has been an evolving science for hundreds of years. Soaps were one of the first cleansing products to be manufactured. With the evolution of synthetic detergents (surfactants) in the 1940's and 1950's, additional opportunities arose in product formulation by combining oil soluble materials with water soluble materials. Through much of the 20th century, skin care preparations were primarily moisturizers and emollients. From the 1970's through today, technology has advanced the development of active ingredients to enhance the skin's appearance. These materials include alpha and beta hydroxy acids, retinol derivatives, vitamin derivatives, advanced bio-engineered ingredients which stimulate collagen and elastin syntheses, ingredients which suppress protein enzyme activity, natural moisturizing factors and even human fibroblast conditioned media. The technology continues to become more sophisticated as it evolves both within major manufacturers of skin care products as well as within the suppliers who develop base ingredients for these manufacturers.
Dermal biometrics (sometimes called bioengineering techniques) have significantly improved over the last decade. Measurement of skin properties and function became critical in supporting representations for products placed in the mass retail trade. Representations like “improves fine lines and wrinkles”, “improves skin firmness by x %”, etc. are commonplace in the market today. These representations are made through the analysis of large groups of panelist volunteers who allow themselves to be measured using biometric techniques along with experimental skin care products. The types of skin properties that are tested include moisturization, firmness, elasticity, sebum amount, skin thickness, skin profilometry, trans-epidermal water loss (barrier function), and photographic analysis (visible and UV to determine photo damage).
Several problems arise when formulating skin care products for the mass market. One problem involves formulating a product to accommodate the largest possible group with any product claim that is made. This explains the proliferation of skin “type” products in the market. Types include: oily, dry, combination, acne prone, sun sensitive, sensitive skin, allergy tested, poor texture, large pores, etc. The manufacturers must strike a balance between what is economically feasible for them relative to the quantity of products available in the market and the amount of customers they can attract from the market.
A second problem that formulators face is product stability. Most responsible manufactures formulate for a 1-3 year shelf life which means that current formulations must contain surfactants, stabilizers, preservatives, and other ingredients in their products. These stabilizing ingredients degrade actives such as retinol, vitamin C and many others. The stabilizers can also affect the penetration parameters of the active ingredients. It is not at all uncommon to analyze formulas from the shelf and find that the retinol or vitamin C values have deteriorated to a zero percent concentration. Bio-engineering specialty ingredients can also be sensitive to heat and light. Unfortunately, however, these products are exposed to temperature fluctuations ranging between freezing and 140° F. or more during manufacturing and distribution. This makes formulating with the active ingredients very difficult. By the time that the product gets to the market, there may be a significant reduction in the concentration of active materials remaining in the products.
One company, Reflect.com, has attempted to solve these problems by creating “customized” products for consumers. Their website notes that mass-produced products follow trends and fall into generic categories, but that the mass-produced products do not take the consumer's specific, individual needs into consideration. The website touts a revolutionary customization process that meets each person's individual beauty needs and desires with “a precision that has never been available before.”
However, the problem with Reflect.com's approach to customized skin-care is that subjective data is used to produce their customized products. The products are created using only data compiled from answers to inquiries. This subjective data is further compromised by the fact that the consumers answer the questions themselves, further skewing the answers from reality by their own perceptions and misconceptions.
Another company, Lab 21, takes an approach similar to Reflect.com. They use a “21” question questionnaire in order to obtain data. Then, they use the results of the questionnaire to design customized skincare formulations. The problem with the Lab 21 approach is the same as the problem with Reflect.com; they use subjective data in order to create their customized products.
Previously, the technological biometric instrumentation required to collect an individual's objective skin profile was not available to the mass market. Such instruments were bulky and expensive. Due to recent developments in the field of dermal biometric evaluation, however, hand-held sized instruments which are more sophisticated and easier to use are now available and being sold at an affordable price.
Currently, only major skin care manufacturers, dermatologists, cosmetic surgeons and other medical and skin care professionals are using these state of the art instruments. For example, Proctor and Gamble have launched a program using their VISIA technology. This photographic imaging tool provides clinical measurement and analysis of topical and subsurface facial skin conditions. Medical and skincare professionals in the fields of dermatology and cosmetic surgery have used the digital skin imaging and quantitative image analysis as a breakthrough tool that allows them to be more effective communicators and to better track medical treatment outcomes by analyzing and scoring skin features.
The challenge faced by the use of the VISIA system is that it is only an imaging technique and gives no objective data relative to the mechanical aspects of skin structure and function such as moisturization, elasticity, etc.